Jean-Christophe Hérault presents "Sweet Disruption. W.T." Stories of creation
Initially conceived exclusively for D'ORSAY's Tokyo boutique, the Eau de Parfum Sweet Disruption.W.T is a vibrant, rocketing fragrance carried by curly Mint that delivers a deliciously unsettling thrill. Jean-Christophe Hérault has created a mixed fragrance for D'ORSAY that evokes visionary love. He talks to us about how he created this fragrance for D'ORSAY.
Maison D'ORSAY cultivates states of love, and this new fragrance Sweet Disruption.W.T. In our opinion, this fragrance illustrates the visionary/disruptive love born of a small revolution, an unexpected meeting between two protagonists whom everything could oppose. How does the fragrance's composition echo this avant-garde dimension?
That was exactly the original intention: to create a surprising olfactory encounter between two ingredients that everything seems to oppose. On the one hand, the mystical, enigmatic and profound ambience of incense, and on the other, the fresh, biting, very herbal mint. It's unusual to find these two ingredients in a formula, let alone in these proportions. It's also rare to see frankincense playing a leading role. Here, played in overdose, it is one of the two protagonists of this unexpected duo.
What was your inspiration for Sweet Disruption. W.T.?
The starting point for my thoughts was mint. I love the smell of mint, and it immediately reminds me of my childhood in the countryside. I love its natural freshness.
For Maison D'ORSAY, I also wanted to work around this ingredient, because mint evokes for me the first thrill of budding love, that deliciously unsettling, electrifying moment that runs through us and grips us.
To wear a fragrance is to wear a story, but also a feeling. What state of mind will the person wearing Sweet Disruption. W.T.?
It's always difficult to anticipate the emotions that fragrances can arouse, as it's a very personal dimension. I do hope, however, that people who discover this fragrance will be surprised and struck by the contrast, that they'll feel the thrill.
How do the top, heart and base notes interact?
The two protagonists - Mint and Frankincense - meet and embrace passionately. The structure of the fragrance is orchestrated to magnify this encounter. First, in the top note, the freshness of Pink Berries and Mandarin Aldehyde sublimate the Mint-Incense accord. The heart develops floral notes, notably Jasmine, which is carnal and heady, giving Incense a powerful sensuality. Finally, the trio of Vetiver, Moss and Olibanum reveal an elegant Woody base.
From your childhood, you have retained a taste for, a passion for, smoky notes. Why is that? And how are they expressed in this fragrance?
It's true that there's something very Proustian about smoky notes. I've always loved the smell of open fires, but my madeleine is the smell of those flints I used to rub as a child, which gave off that smoky, mineral smell. Then of course there's Shalimar, worn by my mother, a scent that's etched in my memory.
What makes the fragrance unique and special?
This unprecedented play of contrasts between two ingredients that seem so far apart.
Some of the ingredients in the fragrance are natural products from Laboratoire Monique Remy. Why this choice?
As an IFF perfumer, I'm lucky enough to have access to the entire LMR palette, the benchmark for natural ingredients, and it's true that it's a pleasure to be able to work with such ingredients on a daily basis, obviously for their olfactory quality, but also for their commitment to ever greater sustainability.
The fragrance blends jasmine, mint and incense. Yet there's an addictive undertone. What raw material/molecule is it?
The addictive facet comes from an accord I created, a gourmand, caramelized, slightly toasted note that adds bind and pleasure to the note.
How did you go about making the fragrance gender-neutral?
To be perfectly honest, I didn't have to question myself on this aspect. Indeed, for me, fragrances are inherently gender-neutral.
